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Moultrie
Game Cam II
Stock Camera: Special made for Moultrie.
Wiring: Black is comman, green is auto focus and red is shutter.
Same wiring colors on the Moultrie Game Cam II but the Canon Owl would
not trigger I think the shutter pulse it to fast.
Thanks to Crowe2000 for the info.
Hawkeye
Jr.
Stock Camera: Vivator 85DB camera.
Wiring: When Bat 1st mentioned the Vivator 85DB cam
had 4 wires going to the unit, I thought it must have a refresh, but, like
he said, 2 wires were for shutter and the other 2 is tapped into 2 of the
4 "C" cell batteries and provides a 3 volt boost to the camera's
2 internal AA's. There is no refresh pulse going to the camera.
The Shutter trigger going to the cam is a POSITIVE 3 to 3.5
volts that kind of bounces around when it's triggered for some unknow reason.
(it starts out at 3.5 but 1 second later falls too about 3). The Canon Owl
PF camera without refresh needs at least a 10 second shutter time (in my
opinion) so a "Pulse Stretcher" needed to be used and create the
10 second shutter press. Too bad the pulse length duration wasn't longer,
then just an opto or relay would be required and no other circuitry.
You guys know me, with the exception of the Opto's, I used
the typical RS parts to build a Pulse Stretcher, which means I used the
TLC555 timer. The circuit draws about 140 ua's (.14 ma's) at idle which
don't put much additional strain on the 4 C cells the unit uses.
Probably the best way to wire this is to replace the existing
Arm/Test toggle switch with a DPDT switch and wire the original switch wires
on one side and the pulse stretcher wires on the other side as shown in
the schamatic. Then operation would be exactly as it is originally except
you'd have to wait 10 seconds (for the TLC555 Time out) before flipping
the Toggle to Arm or a pix would be taken.
Another way is to use a separate Arm/Test switch which allows
the use of an LED for a test lite. When the Toggle in set to TEST, the LED
lites up for 10 seconds when it's triggered but no pix is taken. When set
to Arm, then a pix would be taken and the LED never lites.
If anybody wants to abandon the original Delay Times, the
only way would be to use a separate time delay module and use the Hawkeye's
PIR to trigger it. The best place to pick up this trigger is to connect
to Pin 4 of the 14 IC (PIC16C505) which is 0 volts at idle and goes to ~(+)3
volts when triggered by motion.
I've got quite a bit of other information not noted here,
if anybody needs further, let me know.
Tinhorn
Camera Lens Hole Alignment: The holes for the shutter
and flash are nearly identical in position.
Camtrakker
Stock Camera: Yashica T4 or Olympus Infinity Mini DLX in older
models.
Wiring:
T4 Olympus setup. Red wire does not have any connection on the
camera's end. Black is common, yellow is the refresh pulse wire (autofocus/flash),
and green is for the shutter. I originally used the two wire hookup on
the PF's end, which wouldn't work. The Camtrakker would not trip the camera
long enough to take a pic because the PF needs too much juice to charge
the flash. When I changed over to the Owl 3 wire hookup, something magical
happened and it works great.
Infinity Mini DLX setup. The unit has 4 wires coming out. Red,
black, yellow and blue. The red is power & black is common and they
are back up DC power for the cam.Yellow and blue close the camera shutter
circuit when the PIR is tripped.
The Camtrakker pulse to trip the shutter is very short, so you'll need
a pulse extender to trip the Canon Owl PF.
Thanks to CharlesM and msfelton for the info.
