BOW EQUIPMENT
Turkeys have excellent color vision, and therefore all
equipment should be camouflaged or of a dark color. Brightly-colored
arrow fletchings can give you away unless you are inside a
full-coverage ground blind. Most successful hunters use high-let-off
compounds. Compound bows are a good choice because they shoot very flat
and require less strength to hold at full draw. For those hunters who
choose to hunt without the aid of a full-covered ground blind, a better
choice may be a fast-shooting recurve or long bow A quick shot is
possible with the instinctive style of shooting used by many
traditional archery hunters. Bow draw weights from 45 to 70 pounds are
adequate for hunting wild turkey and adjusting your draw weight down to
around 45 lbs. will help you hold your draw longer and still give good
penetration.
Broadhead selection for turkey hunting is a hotly
debated issue. As you can see from the turkey vitals pic, the heart and
lungs of a turkey are well protected by a lot of bone and feathers.
Penetrating into the vital area is very important so you don't just
wound the turkey and have it run or fly off. NAP Gobbler Getter and NAP Shockwave expandable broadheads work well from
field reports. Make sure to check your state game regs on what is legal
to shoot, some states only allow broadheads with a 7/8" cutting
diameter.
Rubber washers (game
stoppers), or other feather-gabbing devices behind the broadhead are
necessary so the arrow stays in the bird, making recovery easier. Adder Point is one maker of the arrow stoppers for
your arrows. The Neet Game Stoppers are another type of feather
grabbing device to add to your arrow, (see pic on left).
"Snarows" are not recommended
for shooting turkeys by many bowhunters. "Snarows" are basically blunts
with four wire loops extending from the side of the blunt point, (see
pic on right). This creates two figure 8's. The wire extends out from
the side of the blunt about 4 - 6 inches, giving you a pattern of
sorts, for wing shooting birds. Another theory about shooting turkeys
with a bow is some only shoot at the head using snarows. Their thinking
is if you hit them in the head you stone them and if you miss, nothing
is lost. From my experience, those turkey heads are bobbing and weaving
too much for my skill so I shoot at the heart lung section of the body.
Deeper reading on bowhunting turkeys can be found in
the book "Bowhunting for Turkeys" by Jack Brobst.
Since a turkey is a small target, accessories that
improve accuracy are recommended. These include bow and peep sights,
shooting tabs, and releases. Use bright-colored or fluorescent sight
pins or paint dull-colored pins white. This way, they will show up
brightly against the dark colors of a turkey. A turkey's hearing is
good, so eliminate any noisy bow accessories or moving parts. Lubricate
wheels on compound bows, put moleskin around the arrow rest, quiet
squeaky limbs and tighten up any screws, bolts or other noise-making
components. You can find companies that sell bow supplies under the Links section.
BLINDS AND TREESTANDS
Bow hunters suffer a major obstacle to making good,
clean shots at wary nervous turkeys. Turkeys have keen eyesight and
will detect the movement required to draw and shoot a bow, especially
at close bow ranges. A bow hunter who hunts without a blind has a poor
chance for success. Using a blind is the only consistent way to get
close shots at undisturbed turkeys. There are two major types of blinds
- ground and elevated. Ground blinds are the best and are either
portable or constructed with brush and vegetation. Sharp-eyed turkeys
constantly scan trees for signs of danger from above This means that
you will be seen in a tree stand even if you do not move. Tree stands
have other disadvantages, such as the permanent-type stands used for
deer which are often in poor locations for turkey hunting. Portable
stands can be used, but the noise and general commotion involved in
erecting one may spook turkeys. Blind location is critical. In the
fall, this should be within 30 yards of the point where you scattered a
flock In the spring, precise location is not as important, but good
strutting areas, roost sites, or feeding areas are best. You can find
companies that sell turkey blinds under the Links section.
DECOYS & DECOY TACTICS
Turkeys either love or hate decoys depending on their
mood and the time of year Spring gobblers can often be enticed into
close bow range with a decoy Members of fall flocks are not always as
easily fooled. Most experienced bow hunters use a hen decoy.
Positioning a decoy is important. If your decoy is too far away, say 25
yards, and a turkey comes in on the far side and sees it at 20 yards,
the bird may hang up. Then it is out of range at 45 yards. For maximum
effectiveness, place a decoy no more than 10 yards away Some hunters
use more than one hen decoy, a jake decoy, or a small flock of decoys.
The theory is that a turkey will be enticed to join up with the flock
or a gobbler may be enraged at the presence of a jake. Place your jake
decoy to face you because a tom will usually come in and face down the
jake, giving you a chance to raise your bow or rifle. These tactics do
not always work. Seasoned bow hunters occasionally report watching
gobblers ignore jake decoys and fight hen decoys.
Several decoys provide added opportunity for a turkey
to see something interesting, but it also increases safety problems.
Most hunters use only one hen decoy, but sometimes extra decoys can
give you an advantage. One trick you can use with 2 or more decoys is
to "Short Stake" a hen decoy in the breeding position. A tom who comes
to your calling may key in on the receptive hen and forget all about
caution. Another trick with decoys is too add some motion to them to
make them appear real. There are motion decoys available or you can add
fishing line to remotely wiggle them. To keep the foam decoys from
spinning like a top on the stake, you can put grass inside the decoy
shell to slow down the spin in the wind. Shoving some sticks in the
ground besides the decoy will also prevent the wild spinning in the
wind. You can find companies that sell turkey decoys under the Links section.
I like the foam fold up decoys because they are easy to
set up and tuck away real nice in a pack or turkey vest. The hard
bodied decoys have to be carried by hand and clunk along hitting your
shotgun or other gear. You must also consider the safety factor of
carrying a decoy around in the woods with the hard body decoys. Another
decoy that is hot for the spring 2000 hunt is the inflatable decoy by Hidden Valley, it even scrunches up into the palm
of your hand. Too slick.
SHOT PLACEMENT

The best shot is one that breaks the turkey's backbone or
spine. This will immediately immobilize it. For the best chance to hit
the spine, wait until the bird is standing erect with its back toward
you. Aim for the middle of the back. If the turkey is feeding or
walking with its head down, the moving spine presents a difficult
target. A turkey with its head down can be made to stand erect by
making one or two clucks with your call. A hit in the neck is equally
effective, but the neck is small and difficult to hit consistently. An
attempt at a neck shot will either kill the bird instantly or miss it
completely.
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If the turkey is facing you, an arrow placed four inches below
the base of the neck is good. This will be approximately an inch above
where the beard is attached on a male turkey. The arrow should break
the back as it exits the body, and should cause damage to the heart or
lungs, or break a wing or leg.
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A broadside shot can be good
if you hit the point where the wing connects to the turkey's body, just
below the spine. This is a relatively high position on the body. This
will break a wing or the spine, or pierce the heart or lungs.
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Shooting a
strutting gobbler is risky business because his feathers are puffed up,
making the location of a vital area difficult to determine. Make a
cluck or two to bring the gobbler out of strut. Sometimes a gobbler
will not come out of strut. In these situations, the best opportunity
for a vital hit is when he turns his fanned tail toward you. Aim at the
vent or base of the tail. Your arrow should hit the heart, lungs, or
liver and may also break a leg or wing.
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Bow hunters are often faced with the problem of trying
to recover a bird that was hit in a nonvital area. A turkey that is not
immobilized when hit is difficult to recover. Wounded turkeys will
instantly fly or run away, even with an arrow in them. There is usually
no blood trail, no trail of feathers and no tracks to follow.
Responsible bow hunters should never shoot an arrow at a turkey without
the aid of a recovery system. A bird hit in the spine will collapse
immediately. An arrow that pierces the heart or lungs, without breaking
a leg or wing, may require you to do a little searching. A similar hit
that breaks a leg or wing will generally result in a quick recovery. A
wounded bird that runs or flies away should be pursued immediately,
keeping it in sight or within hearing. Listen for the sounds of the
bird running in the leaves or the flapping of its heavy wings.
Regardless of the situation, you should try to mark the
direction of flight or run. If you heard the turkey make a crash
landing, pinpoint the location. Wounded turkeys will normally find a
hiding spot within 200 yards. They will hide almost anywhere. You may
find them in brush piles, under or by a log, in a creek bed, under
leaves or bushes, in tall grass, under rock out-croppings or up against
the base of a large tree or rock. Unless it is obviously dead, shoot
another arrow into a wounded bird to anchor it. Remember that the bird
will have an arrow with a sharp broadhead in it when you retrieve him
with the keeper or string tracker in place. Fortunately, there are
products that will help a bow hunter recover turkeys. String trackers,
heat-sensing detectors, arrows with audible tones, and arrows that
contain small radio transmitters are all examples of effective recovery
systems. You can find companies that sell turkey recovery systems under
the Links section.
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Recovery System
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Advantages
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Disadvantages
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String Trackers
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Low cost, direct tracking, consistent operation
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String may break, can effect arrow
flight |
| Heat-Sensing Detector |
Consistent operation |
May not detect a turkey more than a few yards
away, higher cost |
| Audible Tone Arrows |
Effective to several hundred yards and for many
hours, moderate cost |
Arrow may not stay in turkey, higher cost |
| Arrows with Radio Transmitters |
Direct tracking at longer ranges, effective for
many hours |
Arrow may not stay in turkey, higher cost |