stock finish and checkering

**myfriendis410** · 11-01-2011, 12:35 PM

I got dragooned into redoing my friend's rifle stock and adding a checkering job. The stock was originally built by me to fit his .300 Weatherby Magnum. I kind of sat on it for a year or so before doing anything with it. The checkering is a basic pattern 20 lpi. The finish is basically Tru-Oil. He was very pleased with it when I took it out to him a couple of weeks ago.

I hate checkering.......

**ltdann** · 11-01-2011, 01:24 PM

Finally! Got that one outta your hair. It looks great!

**k_rad** · 11-01-2011, 04:52 PM

Great looking stock 410! I knew you could play em, but I didn't know you could build em too! Is that claro or just a highly figured black walnut?

**map** · 11-01-2011, 06:13 PM

Beautiful, after raising a teenage boy, I need a little Tru-Oil on my Savage 110 Presentation Grade.

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**henmar77** · 11-01-2011, 08:22 PM

Beautiful! I would hire you if i had any guns that contained wood. Mabye you can build my living room furniture!

**myfriendis410** · 11-02-2011, 07:14 AM

Thank you. It's a highly figure walnut and the pictures don't do it justice. There's nothing like a pretty piece of wood IMO.

In a previous life I owned a business that made ultra high end cigar humidors that shipped all over the world. I've also done a fair amount of furniture over the years, so woodworking leaves me few mysteries.

**map** · 11-03-2011, 08:31 AM

Hello myfriend,

Do you refinish rifle stocks! I Tru Oiled the stock it a few times, but it won't hold up to field use. The checkering is ok and only needs to be cleaned up.

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**myfriendis410** · 11-03-2011, 01:10 PM

I just do it for myself. The TruOil is nice because it's infinitely repairable. I also use pure boiled linseed oil for touch up on light scratches. Your finish should hold up as well as any other. As to the checkering; it just needs some cleanup. You can pick up a single line tool and handle at Midway USA and then rub linseed oil in with a toothbrush when you're done.

**map** · 11-04-2011, 12:17 AM

The last time I refinished the stock I used the TruOil spray can, and it seemed more like varnish? I probably have to sand all that finish off, and start all over again? Right?

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**weekender21** · 11-04-2011, 06:31 AM

Looks great!

**k_rad** · 11-04-2011, 09:11 AM

Alan, is there a special jig for checkering, or is it with just a straight edge, vise and V-pairing tool?

**myfriendis410** · 11-04-2011, 12:30 PM

Map: you should at least scuff the surface with something like 400 grit or 0000 steel wool before adding coats. I've used the spray with indifferent results. The hand application should be done THIN. Allow it to cure for several days before adding another THIN coat. Add coats until you have the build you want. When I say thin, I apply it with a lint free cloth and then use a dry cloth to wipe most of it off. Something like 1/2 teaspoon total per application and you then remove most of that.

As to checkering jigs; there's a template tool, and books on the subject. I've got the definitive work: "Checkering and Carving Gun Stocks". It has all of the patterns your heart could want. The tools are very simple 60 or 90 degree, push or pull cut, varying lengths for different purposes and some specialty tools. There are layout tools with the proper spacing depending on the job you want to do, i.e. 20 lpi, 24 lpi, etc. Once you've laid out the lines it's grunt work to deepen them and point up the "V's" on the pattern. It's really quite tedious. A professional can checker a stock, start to finish in about 1 1/2 hours. It takes me about 40. My eyesight is not up to the task for any extended period of time. I spend more than 20 minutes on it and I can't focus my eyes for hours afterward. That's with powerful magnifiers deployed to the task. God forbid you make a mistake, because you've just cut it into the wood. That's why I don't do it for other people.