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slyder
07-11-2003, 09:50 AM
I need a new string for an old Pearson recurve. It was my fathers bow at one time and when i draw it i can only get the string about 5 inches from my face. Would a longer string give me the added length i need to be comfortable. Also ive never shot a recurve or with fingers so i dont exactly now proper form or anchor. Give me a Scott and a Mathews bow and thats a whole nother story!!!

treekiller
07-12-2003, 06:06 AM
slyder...first thing you need to do is measure the length between nocks when the bow is unstrung. This should be 56", 58", 60", etc., the older one piece bows are generally shorter then the newer recurves.

When you order a flemish twist string from a dealer, give them the length, poundage(that will determine how many strands in the string), right or left, and tell it's for a recurve. Recurve loops are larger than longbow loops.

A flemish twist string can be shortened or lengthened to improve arrow flight for an individual bow and shooter, simply by adding twist's(tightening) or removing twist's(loosening). Once you find the sweet spot where arrows seem to fly consistant, then set a nock point.

The fistmele (distance from back of riser shelf to string) should be 6 1/2" give or take!? Again, that is determined by tightening or loosening the string. There's no real set distance for fistmele, most bows have an area where they shoot the best, so you'll need to experiment a bit.

Do you have a Traditional bow shop in your area? Alot of supply house's have website's. Traditional Bowhunter Magazine has many ads from suppliers.

What have I forgotten? There's a start. Don't be afraid to ask for more help, we all started somewhere! Good luck, hope you enjoy your long lost friend !
http://www.jesseshunting.com/forums/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smiley-faces-toast-beers.gif

treekiller

LBR
07-12-2003, 06:07 AM
Sorry Slyder--a longer string won&#39;t help. Measure the fistmele&#39; (from the throat of the grip to the string). If it is around 8", you have the right string length. The bow is just a bit too stiff for you--you need a lighter draw weight. My guess is you need to go with one that is 8-10 lbs lighter than your dad&#39;s bow. Work out with that one to build up your muscles, but I wouldn&#39;t reccomend shooting it until you can come to anchor and hold comfortably (10 seconds or so). Overbowing is one of the most common, and in my opinion worst, mistakes you can make. It will cause you to develop bad habits that are a devil to break.

Chad

LBR
07-12-2003, 06:10 AM
Evidently I was typing at the same time as treekiller! http://www.jesseshunting.com/forums/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smiley-bag-on-head.gif

Chad

slyder
07-12-2003, 07:58 AM
thanks guys. I normally shoot around 65 to 70lbs on my Mathews. But this 40 pounder is kickin my butt. That let-off really spoils us. So i should be able to draw that baby back to where i want without fear of breaking anything? Gonna be a fishin bow so chances are ill release before full draw alot.

LBR
07-12-2003, 02:58 PM
With a little practice, you will be coming to full draw in no time. You just use some muscles that most folks don&#39;t normally use much, and it will take a little work to get them toned up. What is your draw length and what is the bow length? Even if it&#39;s a short bow and you have a long draw, you should be able to come to full draw without damaging the bow. Drawing past 28 may leave some stress marks on the back of the limbs, but that will be primarily cosmetic. It may gain quite a bit also (stack).

Chad

slyder
07-13-2003, 10:58 AM
My draw is 29" with a rope and release. The bow is a 60"er. Where should my anchor be? Im used to locking the area between my thumb and first finger on my jaw.

LBR
07-13-2003, 04:30 PM
The 60" should handle your draw just fine. I&#39;m guessing you will settle in at around 27", depending on your anchor. I prefer to pick a spot directly under my eye--this will line you up naturally. For me, this is my upper canine tooth with my index finger, middle finger pretty much in the corner of my mouth. For my primary anchor point, I pick a spot that will not move (like a tooth).

Chad

hickstick
07-22-2003, 11:17 AM
LBr&#39;s giving so good advice....

what was the letoff on the compounds you&#39;ve been using? Like LBr said, if you&#39;re planning on using it barebow (without sights), you&#39;re better off trying to anchor under your eye. most folks pick the corner of the mouth cause (on most folks faces) it puts the nock right under your eye. I use a mediteranian release (split finger) and tuck the tip of my middle finger in the corner of my mouth.

one thing that night help with your draw, is to make sure you&#39;re using you back muscles by the time you get to your anchor, you should feel like your&#39;re squeesing a tennis ball between your shoulder blades.

when I switched from compound to trad a few years ago my drawlength only dropped from 28 to 27.5., but others have said they dropped a couple inches.

PowDuck
07-22-2003, 03:31 PM
Good to see you back around, HickStick. Good advice. My draw length went from 31" to 28". 3" change. Different peoples are different, right?

ArkansasElkHunter
07-22-2003, 07:29 PM
Some good advice here. Make sure you draw whats comfortable. Draw length can get into the macho thing pretty quick. A lot of guys lend to over-extend to reach a longer draw length. Kinda one of those "mine is bigger than yours" thing. Accuracy will suffer every time.

One other Note. I grew up shooting my dads old Ben Pearson Recurve. Used to hold it with my feet and draw with both hands. launching arrows into a nearby field. Shot it for years. Went to get a new string for it one day and the man at the bow shop said" Don&#39;t shoot it, It&#39;s too old and too nice of a bow. It might snap" Well I knew better since I&#39;d shot it for years. Long story short is I strung the bow and the first shot it doubled over and poped me in the head. I reglued it and now it&#39;s just for looks. Luckily it just seperated in the glue joint and is still a nice collectors piece, but I sure wish I could still string it.

I guess, upon reflection, you might as well go ahead. If it breaks you can still hang it on the wall, and if it dosn&#39;t, you&#39;ll have a ball shooting it. Lots of guys have good success shooting the old bows, Just my bad luck I guess. Come to think of it, I&#39;d try it again if I could.

slyder
07-23-2003, 05:13 PM
I kinda wondered about the old bow breaking. Ive been shooting it now and then and it shoots good. Starting to develope some horizontal cracks in the finish on the limbs. I heard this is nothing to worry about. It sure is different from compounds.....but fun. Im gonna practice with it some more this summer and maybe take it in the woods squirrell or rabbit hunting this fall. Was supposed to be a fishin bow.....guess ill have to get another. http://www.jesseshunting.com/forums/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smiley-wnk-yellow.gif